Guinea pigs are small.

Their care needs are not.

They need more than:

a cage, a bowl of pellets and the occasional carrot.

Guinea pigs are highly social herbivores with continuously growing teeth and a digestive system built around a high-fibre diet. Unlike most mammals, they cannot manufacture their own vitamin C, which means they must obtain enough of it through their diet.

They also tend to conceal illness.

So good guinea pig care is built around two things:

meeting their species-specific needs and learning what normal looks like for your individual guinea pigs.

Quick guinea pig care checklist

FOOD

• Unlimited good-quality grass hay
• Guinea-pig-specific pellets
• Appropriate fresh vegetables and leafy greens
• Reliable dietary vitamin C
• No sudden diet changes

WATER

• Fresh water available at all times
• Bottle/bowl checked daily
• Water system actually working

COMPANIONSHIP

• Compatible guinea pig companion where appropriate
• Social interactions monitored
• Enough resources for all guinea pigs

HOME

• Spacious enclosure
• Solid flooring
• Dry, comfortable resting areas
• Multiple hiding places
• Safe exercise space

HEALTH

• Eating normally
• Drinking normally
• Producing normal droppings
• Weight stable
• Moving normally
• Breathing comfortably
• Eyes and nose clear
• Coat/skin normal
• Feet healthy

CARE

• Nails checked regularly
• Coat checked/groomed as appropriate
• Veterinary practice established
• Emergency contact saved

1. Guinea pigs are not miniature rabbits

This matters from day one.

Although both species are herbivores, their nutritional requirements are not identical.

One critical difference is:

vitamin C.

Guinea pigs cannot synthesise their own vitamin C and therefore need a reliable dietary source. Rabbit food is not an appropriate substitute for properly formulated guinea-pig pellets because it may not provide the vitamin C guinea pigs require.

That is why 1KAHU should never treat:

Small mammal = generic care profile.

A guinea pig is:

a guinea pig.

2. Hay is the foundation of the diet

For most healthy adult guinea pigs, good-quality grass hay should be available:

all the time.

Examples include:

• timothy hay;
• orchard grass;
• other appropriate grass hays.

Hay provides the fibre required for normal gastrointestinal function.

It also serves another essential purpose.

Guinea pig teeth grow continuously, and chewing fibrous hay helps provide the natural wear their teeth need.

Think of hay as:

the foundation of the diet

rather than:

bedding they sometimes eat.

3. Hay should be fresh and appealing

Good hay should generally be:

• dry;
• clean;
• free from mould;
• free from excessive dust;
• pleasant smelling.

Make sure it remains accessible.

If your guinea pigs suddenly stop eating hay:

pay attention.

Reduced hay intake can be an early sign of:

• dental pain;
• illness;
• gastrointestinal problems;
• another health issue.

4. Fresh grass can also be valuable

Appropriate fresh grass can form part of a guinea pig's diet and provides a natural grazing opportunity.

The RSPCA recommends providing fresh grass as often as possible alongside constant access to hay.

But:

never feed lawnmower clippings.

The RSPCA specifically warns that lawnmower clippings can make guinea pigs ill.

Introduce fresh grass gradually if your guinea pigs are not accustomed to it.

5. Guinea pigs need vitamin C

This is one of the most important facts every new guardian should know.

Guinea pigs cannot make vitamin C internally because they lack the necessary functional biochemical pathway.

Without sufficient vitamin C, they can develop:

hypovitaminosis C — scurvy.

Vitamin C is important for:

• connective tissue;
• skin;
• joints;
• blood vessels;
• gums;
• wound healing;
• normal health.

Deficiency can cause signs including:

• reduced appetite;
• weight loss;
• rough coat;
• pain;
• reluctance to move;
• swollen joints;
• delayed wound healing;
• bleeding.

6. How much vitamin C does a guinea pig need?

This is where the Academy should resist turning a nutritional principle into a universal prescription.

Requirements vary with:

• age;
• pregnancy;
• lactation;
• illness;
• individual health.

Current Merck veterinary guidance gives a typical adult requirement of approximately 10–25 mg/kg/day, with higher requirements in growing, pregnant, lactating or ill guinea pigs.

But 1KAHU should not turn that into:

“Your guinea pig weighs 900 g, therefore administer X mg.”

without professional context.

For an individual animal, the veterinarian should advise whether supplementation is required and how much.

7. Where should vitamin C come from?

Depending on the individual diet, sources can include:

• fresh guinea-pig-specific pellets containing stabilised vitamin C;
• vitamin-C-rich vegetables;
• a veterinarian-recommended supplement when needed.

Useful vegetable sources can include foods such as:

bell peppers

and other appropriate vegetables.

Vitamin C in pellets deteriorates with:

• time;
• heat;
• light;
• moisture.

So an old bag of fortified pellets should not automatically be considered a reliable vitamin C source.

8. Do not routinely put vitamin C in the drinking water

This remains common advice online.

It is not the preferred strategy.

Vitamin C can degrade in water, and adding it may change the water's taste enough to reduce drinking.

Current Merck veterinary guidance therefore does not recommend vitamin C supplementation through drinking water.

A guinea pig needs:

reliable vitamin C + reliable water intake.

A method that potentially compromises either is not ideal.

9. Use guinea-pig-specific pellets

Pellets should be formulated specifically for:

guinea pigs.

For most healthy adults, a high-fibre grass/timothy-based pellet is appropriate as one component of the diet—not the entire diet.

Pellets should complement:

hay + appropriate vegetables

rather than replace them.

Current veterinary sources recommend measured rather than unlimited pellet feeding for healthy adults because hay should remain the dietary foundation.

Young, pregnant or lactating animals can have different requirements.

10. Vegetables are part of a healthy diet

Appropriate fresh vegetables and leafy greens can provide:

• nutrients;
• variety;
• water;
• vitamin C;
• enrichment.

Useful options can include foods such as:

• bell peppers;
• romaine;
• suitable leafy greens;
• cucumber;
• other appropriate vegetables.

Variety matters.

Current Merck professional guidance also cites emerging evidence associating greater produce diversity with a lower likelihood of urinary stones in pet guinea pigs, although this should not be interpreted as a guarantee against urolithiasis.

11. Fruit should be limited

Fruit is often marketed as a:

healthy natural treat.

But it can contain considerable sugar.

Current veterinary guidance recommends fruit only sparingly, if at all, rather than making it a major part of the daily diet.

The guinea pig's diet should look much more like:

grass + hay + vegetables

than:

a fruit bowl.

12. Avoid sudden diet changes

Guinea pigs can develop strong food preferences, and their gastrointestinal system depends on a stable microbial environment.

Sudden dietary change can cause problems and may lead some guinea pigs to refuse unfamiliar foods.

Introduce new foods:

gradually.

If you bring a new guinea pig home, find out:

• what hay they currently eat;
• which pellets;
• what vegetables;
• what feeding schedule.

Transition carefully rather than changing everything on the first day.

13. Fresh water should always be available

Provide clean drinking water:

24 hours a day.

Water can be offered in:

• an appropriate bottle;
• a stable bowl,

depending on the setup and individual animals.

Whichever system you use:

check that it works.

Bottle tubes can become:

• blocked;
• dirty;
• contaminated.

Current veterinary guidance recommends cleaning water systems daily and refreshing the water regularly.

14. Monitor drinking

You do not need to measure every millilitre.

But learn what is normal.

A meaningful change in:

• drinking;
• urination;
• appetite;
• droppings

can provide important health information.

The RSPCA advises contacting a veterinarian immediately when significant changes in eating, drinking or toileting are noticed.

15. Guinea pigs are social animals

A guinea pig may interact with humans.

That does not necessarily replace:

guinea pig companionship.

The RSPCA recommends keeping guinea pigs with at least one other friendly guinea pig unless a veterinarian or clinical animal behaviourist advises otherwise.

Companionship can support:

• social behaviour;
• communication;
• resting together;
• exploration;
• wellbeing.

16. Do not simply put two unfamiliar guinea pigs together

Companionship does not mean:

“Buy another guinea pig and place it in the enclosure.”

Consider:

• sex;
• neuter status;
• temperament;
• existing relationship;
• health;
• space;
• resources;
• introduction method.

Introductions should be managed appropriately.

Not every pairing will be compatible.

17. Never rely on a pet shop's sex identification without checking

Accidental litters can occur when guinea pigs are incorrectly sexed.

When bringing animals together:

• confirm sex;
• discuss neutering where relevant;
• seek experienced veterinary advice if uncertain.

This is especially important because pregnancy and birth can carry health risks.

18. Guinea pigs need space

A traditional small pet-shop cage can be inadequate for normal:

• movement;
• exploration;
• exercise;
• social interaction.

Current Merck professional guidance recommends a solid floor and cites approximately 7.5 square feet as a minimum enclosure area for one guinea pig, with additional space for each additional animal.

However, guardians should view published minimums as:

a floor—not a design target.

More usable space generally provides greater opportunity for natural behaviour.

19. Solid flooring matters

Wire flooring can contribute to:

• foot injury;
• limb injury;
• pododermatitis.

Current Merck guidance specifically recommends solid-floor housing for guinea pigs.

The surface should also be:

• comfortable;
• dry;
• clean;
• non-slip.

20. Guinea pigs need hiding places

Guinea pigs are prey animals.

They need somewhere to:

retreat.

Provide appropriate:

• hides;
• tunnels;
• covered areas;
• shelters.

In multi-guinea-pig homes, provide enough resources so one animal cannot control access to:

• hiding;
• hay;
• food;
• water.

A hide should make the animal feel:

secure

not:

trapped.

21. Give them opportunities to explore

Enrichment can include:

• tunnels;
• cardboard boxes;
• hay-filled areas;
• multiple hay stations;
• safe shelters;
• changing layouts;
• appropriate forage;
• safe chewable materials.

Simple environments can be excellent if they support:

movement + exploration + foraging + choice.

A brightly coloured plastic toy is not automatically enriching.

22. Guinea pigs need exercise

A guinea pig's life should not consist of:

food bowl → hide → food bowl.

They need enough room to:

• walk;
• run;
• explore;
• stretch;
• interact;
• forage.

Exercise supports:

• body condition;
• mobility;
• behavioural wellbeing.

The enclosure should allow this every day.

23. Be cautious with exercise wheels and balls

Guinea pigs are not hamsters.

Exercise equipment designed for other small mammals may be inappropriate for their:

• anatomy;
• spine;
• movement.

The safest enrichment is generally based around:

floor space, tunnels, forage and exploration

rather than forcing the guinea pig into equipment designed for another species.

This is another reason 1KAHU must not have a generic:

Small Pet Enrichment

template.

24. Keep their environment comfortable

Guinea pigs need protection from:

• excessive heat;
• cold;
• damp;
• drafts;
• direct intense sun;
• predators.

Current Merck professional guidance gives approximately 18–26°C (65–79°F) as a generally tolerated environmental range, although housing decisions must account for the individual animal, acclimatisation, humidity and conditions.

Heat deserves particular attention because guinea pigs can be vulnerable to overheating.

25. Outdoor housing requires additional planning

If guinea pigs spend time outdoors, think about:

• weather;
• temperature;
• predators;
• shade;
• rain;
• damp;
• escape;
• toxic plants;
• secure housing.

Do not assume:

“They have fur, so they're fine outside.”

Conditions can change quickly.

26. Clean the environment regularly

Every day:

• remove wet/soiled areas;
• check hay;
• clean food/water containers as needed;
• observe droppings.

Regularly:

• clean bedding;
• clean hides;
• clean the enclosure;
• inspect for damage.

Current Merck pet-owner guidance recommends daily spot cleaning and more thorough weekly cleaning.

But avoid turning cleaning into:

constant total environmental disruption.

Guinea pigs also benefit from a predictable environment.

27. Droppings are health information

Guinea pigs produce different types of faecal material and normally re-ingest nutrient-rich caecal material directly.

This is part of their normal digestive physiology.

So if you see a guinea pig apparently:

eating faeces

that is not automatically abnormal.

More important is noticing changes such as:

• markedly fewer droppings;
• no droppings;
• persistently softer droppings;
• diarrhoea;
• unusually small droppings.

28. Appetite and droppings belong together

For guinea pigs:

eating + gastrointestinal movement

are tightly connected.

A diet deficient in fibre can disrupt normal gut function, and gastrointestinal slowing can become serious.

Therefore:

reduced appetite + reduced droppings

should never be treated as two unrelated observations.

That pattern should trigger:

prompt veterinary advice.

29. Guinea pigs have continuously growing teeth

Their teeth are designed for a fibrous herbivorous diet.

Hay contributes to:

natural dental wear.

Dental problems can interfere with eating and may not always be obvious by looking only at the front teeth.

Potential signs include:

• reduced eating;
• dropping food;
• difficulty chewing;
• weight loss;
• drooling/wet chin;
• selective eating;
• reduced droppings.

30. Do not trim overgrown teeth yourself

Dental disease in guinea pigs can involve:

• incisors;
• cheek teeth;
• jaw;
• roots.

A proper assessment may require:

• veterinary oral examination;
• imaging;
• appropriate treatment.

VCA notes that full evaluation of guinea pig dental disease may require skull imaging such as CT or radiographs.

DIY clipping does not address the underlying problem and can cause injury.

31. Weight is one of the most useful things to track

Guinea pigs can hide illness.

Regular weight monitoring can help reveal:

a downward trend

before it becomes visually obvious.

Use:

• a suitable digital scale;
• grams;
• the same method;
• consistent conditions where practical.

Record the trend.

For example:

1,040 g → 1,025 g → 990 g → 950 g

is more informative than:

“He looks a bit thinner.”

Ask your veterinarian what frequency is appropriate for your guinea pig.

32. Grooming needs depend on coat type

Short-haired guinea pigs may require relatively simple coat care.

Long-haired animals can require more frequent:

• brushing;
• detangling;
• trimming around areas prone to soiling.

Check the coat for:

• mats;
• dirt;
• bald areas;
• dandruff;
• wounds;
• parasites;
• lumps.

Current Merck routine-care guidance recommends regular brushing and bathing only when the coat is genuinely dirty or matted rather than as a routine requirement.

33. Check the nails

Guinea pig nails grow continuously.

Overgrown nails can:

• curl;
• affect stance;
• make walking uncomfortable;
• increase injury risk.

Merck recommends regular nail trimming.

If you are not confident:

ask your veterinary team to show you how.

34. Check the feet

Look for:

• redness;
• swelling;
• sores;
• wounds;
• crusting;
• abnormal nails;
• reluctance to bear weight.

Pododermatitis—often called:

bumblefoot

—can become painful and serious.

Housing, bodyweight and hygiene can all influence foot health.

35. Monitor eyes and nose

Healthy guinea pigs should generally have:

• clear eyes;
• clean nostrils;
• comfortable breathing.

Watch for:

• discharge;
• crusting;
• redness;
• swelling;
• squinting;
• repeated sneezing;
• breathing changes.

Respiratory disease is an important health problem in guinea pigs and warrants veterinary assessment.

36. Learn your guinea pigs' normal sounds

Guinea pigs are wonderfully vocal.

Their repertoire can include:

• wheeking;
• purring;
• rumbling;
• chattering;
• squeaking.

Learn what is normal in context for each individual.

A sudden change in vocalisation—particularly:

crying while urinating

or:

vocalising during movement

—can indicate discomfort.

Behaviour is health information.

37. Watch urination

Urinary problems, including bladder stones, can occur in guinea pigs.

Watch for:

• straining;
• frequent attempts;
• blood;
• crying during urination;
• reduced urine;
• discomfort.

Urinary obstruction or severe difficulty passing urine requires urgent veterinary assessment.

Do not assume blood around the rear is:

“probably from the urine.”

Female guinea pigs can also have reproductive disease.

The source needs to be determined.

38. Guinea pigs can develop ovarian disease

Female guinea pigs can develop ovarian cystic disease; Merck identifies cystic ovarian disease as the most common reproductive-tract disorder in sows.

Potential signs can include:

• abdominal enlargement;
• hair loss;
• reproductive changes;
• discomfort.

Do not attempt to diagnose this at home.

Persistent changes warrant veterinary examination.

39. Find a guinea-pig-experienced veterinarian early

Do this before:

the emergency.

Not every veterinary practice has the same experience with:

• guinea pigs;
• rabbits;
• birds;
• reptiles.

Ask:

• Does the practice routinely treat guinea pigs?
• Who sees exotic/small-mammal patients?
• Where should I go out of hours?
• Can they manage dental emergencies?
• Where are imaging/surgical cases referred?

Save this information.

40. Preventive veterinary care matters

Routine veterinary visits provide opportunities to assess:

• weight;
• body condition;
• teeth;
• feet;
• skin;
• diet;
• vitamin C intake;
• mobility;
• reproductive health;
• general husbandry.

VCA recommends annual veterinary examination for guinea pigs, with individual needs potentially requiring more frequent care.

The exact schedule should be agreed with your veterinarian.

41. Do guinea pigs need routine vaccinations?

Unlike dogs, cats or rabbits in some regions, pet guinea pigs do not generally follow a standard routine vaccination programme.

But that does not mean:

“No vaccines = no preventive healthcare.”

Preventive care still includes:

• veterinary examinations;
• nutrition;
• dental monitoring;
• weight;
• skin/parasite assessment;
• reproductive health;
• environmental management.

Do not create a vaccination schedule in 1KAHU simply because:

Pet Profile = expects vaccines.

Species logic matters.

42. Do guinea pigs need routine parasite treatment?

Do not automatically apply dog/cat:

monthly parasite treatment

logic to guinea pigs.

Treatment should be based on:

• symptoms;
• diagnosis;
• exposure;
• veterinary recommendation.

Never use another pet's flea or parasite product on a guinea pig unless a veterinarian has specifically instructed you to do so.

43. Medication can be particularly important to get right

Never give:

• leftover antibiotics;
• pet-store antibiotics;
• another pet's medicine;
• human medication

without veterinary direction.

Certain antibiotics can severely disrupt the normal intestinal bacteria of guinea pigs and can cause dangerous or even fatal gastrointestinal disease.

The medicine must be appropriate for:

this species + this patient.

44. Guinea pigs should not be fasted casually

Because their gastrointestinal physiology depends on ongoing fibre intake, do not withhold food before:

• veterinary appointments;
• procedures;
• anaesthesia

unless the veterinary team specifically instructs you to do so.

Tell the clinic you are bringing:

a guinea pig

when booking.

Species-specific instructions matter.

The 60-second daily guinea pig check

This should become the main reusable checklist for both the Academy and 1KAHU app.

APPETITE

Eating normally?

Yes / Reduced / Not eating

HAY

Eating hay normally?

Yes / Reduced / No

DROPPINGS

Normal?

Yes / Fewer / Abnormal / None

WATER

Normal?

Yes / Increased / Reduced / Unsure

MOVEMENT

Normal?

Yes / Reduced / Limping / Reluctant

BREATHING

Normal?

Yes / Changed / Laboured

BEHAVIOUR

Normal?

Yes / Quieter / Hiding / Other

BODY

Anything visibly different?

No / Yes

The purpose is not:

daily diagnosis.

It is:

early change detection.

Weekly guinea pig health check

• Record weight
• Review weight trend
• Check coat
• Check skin
• Check eyes/nose
• Check feet
• Check nails
• Observe eating
• Observe droppings
• Review water intake
• Check enclosure
• Inspect hides/toys
• Review companion interactions

When should you contact a veterinarian?

Contact a guinea-pig-experienced veterinarian promptly for changes such as:

• reduced appetite;
• reduced hay intake;
• fewer/smaller droppings;
• weight loss;
• drooling;
• difficulty eating;
• diarrhoea;
• persistent soft stool;
• eye/nose discharge;
• coughing or breathing changes;
• skin lesions;
• severe itching;
• hair loss;
• lameness;
• foot sores;
• painful urination;
• blood in urine;
• unusual lethargy;
• persistent behaviour change.

The RSPCA specifically advises immediate veterinary consultation when guinea pigs show changes in eating, drinking or toileting habits.

When is it an emergency?

Seek urgent veterinary advice for signs such as:

NOT EATING

A guinea pig that has stopped eating—particularly with reduced or absent droppings—needs prompt assessment.

BREATHING

Severe or laboured breathing.

ABDOMEN

Marked abdominal swelling, severe pain or suspected gastrointestinal emergency.

URINARY

Straining or inability to pass urine.

NEUROLOGICAL

Collapse, seizure, severe weakness or inability to stand.

TRAUMA

Major injury, significant bleeding or suspected fracture.

HEAT

Severe overheating/heat illness.

POISONING

Known or suspected toxic ingestion.

REPRODUCTIVE

Severe pregnancy/birth complications or significant reproductive distress.

Do not use:

“Let's see how they are tomorrow.”

as the default response to a guinea pig that has stopped eating and producing droppings.

Should you syringe-feed a guinea pig that isn't eating?

Not automatically.

Veterinarians may use assisted feeding as part of treatment for some guinea pigs, but loss of appetite can have multiple causes, including:

• dental obstruction;
• gastrointestinal disease;
• severe pain;
• other illness.

Current Merck guidance describes veterinary treatment of gastrointestinal problems as potentially including fluids and syringe feeding after veterinary evaluation of the cause.

So the safe Academy message is:

A guinea pig that stops eating needs veterinary assessment. Follow the veterinarian's instructions on assisted feeding rather than improvising treatment.

Common guinea pig care mistakes

“Pellets are the main food.”

No.

For healthy adults, grass hay should form the foundation of the diet.

“Rabbit pellets are basically the same.”

No.

Guinea pigs have a specific dietary requirement for vitamin C.

“I'll put vitamin C drops in the water.”

Not recommended as a routine strategy because vitamin C degrades and altered taste may reduce drinking.

“Guinea pigs can live alone if I give them enough attention.”

Human interaction does not automatically replace guinea pig companionship. The RSPCA recommends at least one compatible guinea pig companion unless professionally advised otherwise.

“A small cage is fine because they're small animals.”

Body size does not determine behavioural needs.

Guinea pigs need meaningful floor space.

“Wire floors are easier to clean.”

They can contribute to foot and limb injury. Solid flooring is recommended.

“Fruit is healthy, so they can have lots.”

Fruit is sugary and should be limited.

“Carrots are the perfect guinea pig food.”

They can be offered in small quantities, but they are not the nutritional foundation of a guinea pig diet.

Hay is.

“They stopped eating, but I'll wait until tomorrow.”

Potentially dangerous.

Reduced intake can accompany serious gastrointestinal or dental disease.

“I'll trim the teeth myself.”

No.

Dental disease requires veterinary assessment.

“I can use my rabbit's medicine.”

Never assume medication safe for one species is safe for another.

“They don't need a vet because guinea pigs don't get routine vaccines.”

Preventive healthcare is much broader than vaccination.

Key facts

Hay should be available at all times. It provides essential fibre and contributes to dental wear.

Guinea pigs cannot produce their own vitamin C. They require a reliable dietary source throughout life.

Vitamin C in water is not the preferred supplementation method. It degrades and can make water less appealing.

Guinea pigs should not routinely live alone. Compatible guinea pig companionship is recommended unless a veterinary or behavioural reason dictates otherwise.

Solid flooring is important. Wire floors can contribute to foot and limb injury.

Their teeth continuously grow. Hay is therefore important for both gastrointestinal and dental health.

Weight trends are valuable health information.

Eating and droppings should be monitored together.

A guinea pig that stops eating requires prompt veterinary attention.

Do not give antibiotics or other medicines without veterinary direction. Some antibiotics can dangerously disrupt guinea pig intestinal flora.

Frequently asked questions

Are guinea pigs easy pets for beginners?

They can make wonderful companions, but they are not low-maintenance. They need a high-fibre diet, reliable vitamin C, appropriate housing, companionship, daily observation and access to a guinea-pig-experienced veterinarian.

What do guinea pigs eat?

For most healthy adults, the foundation should be unlimited good-quality grass hay, with measured guinea-pig-specific pellets and appropriate fresh vegetables.

Do guinea pigs need hay all the time?

Yes. Grass hay should generally be continuously available. It supports gastrointestinal function and natural dental wear.

Do guinea pigs need vitamin C every day?

They require a regular dietary supply because they cannot synthesise vitamin C themselves. Individual requirements can vary with age and health.

Should I put vitamin C in my guinea pig's water?

Current veterinary guidance does not recommend this as the routine method because vitamin C breaks down and may make water less palatable.

Can guinea pigs eat rabbit food?

Rabbit pellets should not substitute for guinea-pig-specific food because guinea pigs have a dietary vitamin C requirement.

Can guinea pigs eat carrots every day?

Carrot is relatively sugary and is better treated as a limited food rather than a dietary staple. Hay and appropriate leafy vegetables should play much larger roles.

Can guinea pigs eat fruit?

Small amounts can be offered occasionally, but fruit should be limited because of its sugar content.

Can guinea pigs live alone?

They are social animals. The RSPCA recommends keeping at least one compatible companion unless a veterinarian or clinical behaviourist advises otherwise.

Can two male guinea pigs live together?

Some male pairs live very successfully together. Compatibility, space, resources and introductions matter more than simply applying a universal rule based on sex.

How big should a guinea pig enclosure be?

Current Merck professional guidance cites at least 7.5 square feet for one guinea pig with additional space for additional animals, but more usable space supports greater behavioural choice and exercise.

Can guinea pigs use exercise wheels?

Equipment designed for hamsters and other small rodents is generally not an appropriate substitute for floor-based exercise for guinea pigs. Provide ample space, tunnels, hides and exploration instead.

How often should I weigh my guinea pig?

Regular weight monitoring is useful, but frequency should reflect the animal's age and health and your veterinarian's advice. Consistency and trend are more useful than isolated numbers.

Do guinea pigs need baths?

Routine bathing is generally unnecessary. Merck recommends bathing when fur is dirty or matted rather than as a regular routine.

How often should guinea pig nails be trimmed?

They need regular checking and periodic trimming. The interval varies by the individual.

Do guinea pigs need vaccinations?

Pet guinea pigs generally do not follow the routine vaccination programmes familiar from dogs, cats or rabbits. Preventive veterinary care remains important.

Why has my guinea pig stopped eating?

Dental disease, gastrointestinal problems, pain and other illnesses can reduce appetite. Because guinea pigs depend on ongoing food and fibre intake, prompt veterinary assessment is important.

Why is my guinea pig producing fewer droppings?

Reduced droppings can accompany reduced food intake or gastrointestinal problems. If the change is significant—particularly alongside reduced appetite—contact a veterinarian promptly.

Is it normal for guinea pigs to eat their own droppings?

Yes. Guinea pigs normally re-ingest specialised nutrient-rich faecal material as part of their digestive process.

Should I syringe-feed my guinea pig if they stop eating?

Do not improvise treatment. Contact a guinea-pig-experienced veterinarian promptly and follow their instructions. Assisted feeding may form part of treatment after the underlying problem is assessed.

How often should a guinea pig see a veterinarian?

Routine preventive examination is recommended; VCA advises annual examination, while some animals may need more frequent monitoring based on age or health.

A healthy guinea pig is a pattern

Imagine two guinea pigs:

PIPPA

Eating hay enthusiastically Weight stable Normal droppings

Active Social Moving normally

PEANUT

Eating less hay Weight falling Droppings becoming smaller Sitting in the hide more Less interested in vegetables

None of Peanut's changes should be viewed in isolation.

Together, they tell us:

something has changed.

That is what a good guardian notices.

And it is what a good digital health platform should help make visible.

1KAHU

Built around the guinea pig—not adapted from the rabbit.

A guinea pig profile should understand what matters for:

this species.

IDENTITY

Name Sex Date of birth / estimated age Colour/breed/type Microchip where applicable Companion guinea pig(s)

NUTRITION

Hay type Pellet type Vegetables Vitamin C source Dietary changes

HEALTH

Weight Dental history GI history Urinary history Skin/parasites Feet Reproductive history Medication

EVERYDAY CARE

Housing Companions Enrichment Grooming Nail care

PROFESSIONALS

Primary veterinarian Exotics veterinarian Emergency provider

BASELINE

Appetite Hay intake Droppings Water Movement Behaviour

One Guardian. For All Pets.

1KAHU is a technology platform and is not a provider of veterinary or healthcare services. This guide provides general educational information and cannot determine the correct diet, vitamin C intake, housing or medical treatment for an individual guinea pig. Requirements vary with age, health and circumstances. Seek advice from a veterinarian experienced in guinea pig or exotic-small-mammal medicine for individual care.