Rabbits are sometimes described as easy pets.

They are small.

They are quiet.

They do not need to be taken for walks like dogs.

So it can be tempting to imagine rabbit care as:

hutch + food + water = happy rabbit.

It isn't.

Rabbits have complex:

• nutritional;
• social;
• behavioural;
• environmental;
• and medical

needs.

The RSPCA describes rabbits as animals with a complex set of needs, while PDSA notes that despite their popularity, meeting those needs properly is not always straightforward.

A rabbit needs space to:

run

stretch

stand upright

hide

dig

forage

chew

rest

and interact socially.

Their digestive system depends heavily on fibre.

Their teeth grow continuously.

They are a prey species and may hide signs of illness.

And because rabbits need to eat frequently to support normal gastrointestinal function, a change in appetite or droppings can become medically important quickly.

So good rabbit care begins by understanding one important principle:

A rabbit is not a small cat, a quiet dog or a children's starter pet.

It is a rabbit.

And rabbit care needs to be designed around rabbit biology and behaviour.

Key takeaways

• Rabbits need constant access to good-quality hay and/or grass, which should make up the majority of the diet.
• Hay and grass provide fibre, support gastrointestinal health and help wear down rabbits' continuously growing teeth.
• Fresh, clean drinking water should always be available.
• Rabbits are highly social and should generally have compatible rabbit companionship rather than living alone.
• Rabbits need much more than a traditional hutch: their environment must allow normal movement, exercise, hiding, exploration and enrichment.
• Rabbits need regular veterinary care and vaccinations appropriate to their country and individual circumstances. In the UK, vaccination protects against myxomatosis and rabbit haemorrhagic disease.
• Dental health is closely connected to diet because rabbit teeth grow continuously.
• A rabbit that stops eating, drinks differently or produces fewer/no droppings needs prompt veterinary attention.
• Flystrike is a potentially rapidly fatal condition and rabbits should be checked regularly, especially around the hindquarters and during warm weather.
• Rabbit care advice should be species-specific. Feeding, fasting, medication and handling advice intended for dogs or cats may be inappropriate or dangerous for rabbits.

The complete rabbit care checklist

Food

• Unlimited good-quality feeding hay and/or suitable grass
• Fresh water available at all times
• Appropriate leafy greens
• Small measured quantity of suitable rabbit pellets/nuggets
• No routine muesli-style rabbit mix
• Treats limited appropriately

Home

• Large permanent living space
• Exercise area
• Dry sheltered resting area
• Hiding places
• Non-slip flooring
• Comfortable bedding
• Safe toilet area
• Protection from predators
• Protection from extreme heat and weather

Companionship

• Compatible rabbit companion where possible
• Appropriate bonding process
• Enough resources for both rabbits
• Daily positive human interaction

Behaviour

• Digging opportunities
• Foraging
• Chewing
• Hiding
• Exploring
• Running
• Stretching
• Standing upright
• Resting undisturbed

Health

• Rabbit-experienced veterinary practice
• Vaccination plan
• Neutering discussion
• Dental monitoring
• Weight/body-condition monitoring
• Parasite-risk discussion
• Daily appetite monitoring
• Daily droppings monitoring
• Flystrike prevention/checks
• Nail and coat care

Records

• Vaccinations
• Weight history
• Veterinary visits
• Medication
• Dental history
• Procedures
• Microchip/identification where relevant
• Insurance information
• Emergency veterinary contact

1. Hay is the foundation of rabbit nutrition

If there is one nutritional principle every new rabbit guardian should understand, it is:

Hay matters enormously.

Good-quality hay and/or suitable grass should form the majority of a rabbit's diet and be available consistently. The RSPCA describes a healthy rabbit diet as approximately 85% hay/fresh grass, 10% leafy vegetables/herbs and 5% pellets, while PDSA uses the practical rule of offering at least a rabbit's own body size in good-quality hay each day.

This is not simply because hay is:

“low calorie.”

Hay provides fibre needed for normal digestive function.

It also encourages prolonged chewing, helping wear down rabbits' continuously growing teeth.

Think of hay as:

the centre of the diet

rather than:

something to nibble after the bowl is empty.

2. Choose feeding hay, not just bedding

Not all hay is equal.

Feeding hay should generally be:

• fresh;
• dry;
• sweet-smelling;
• free from mould;
• low in dust.

PDSA notes that feeding hay tends to be fresher, greener and more nutritious than hay intended primarily as bedding.

If hay smells:

• musty;
• damp;
• mouldy

do not feed it.

3. Never feed lawnmower clippings

Fresh suitable grass can be part of a rabbit's diet.

But:

fresh grass ≠ lawnmower clippings.

The RSPCA specifically advises against feeding lawnmower clippings because they can make rabbits ill.

If introducing fresh grass to a rabbit that is not accustomed to it, do so carefully and seek appropriate guidance rather than making a sudden dietary change.

4. Offer suitable leafy greens

Rabbits can receive a variety of safe:

• leafy vegetables;
• herbs;
• suitable edible plants.

The RSPCA recommends daily safe washed leafy greens alongside the hay-based diet.

Introduce unfamiliar foods gradually.

Sudden dietary changes can disrupt the rabbit's digestive system.

And remember:

not every plant that is safe for humans is safe for rabbits.

Correct plant identification matters.

5. Pellets should be a small part of the diet

Pellets or nuggets can contribute nutrients.

But they should not replace hay.

Both RSPCA and PDSA guidance places pellets as a relatively small component of an adult rabbit's overall diet.

Too much concentrated food can reduce hay intake.

That matters because the rabbit then loses some of the:

• fibre;
• chewing time;
• foraging behaviour

that hay provides.

6. Avoid muesli-style rabbit food

Traditional colourful rabbit muesli may look varied and appealing.

But rabbits can selectively eat preferred ingredients and leave others.

The RSPCA recommends not feeding muesli-style diets and advises gradual transition rather than sudden dietary change where rabbits are currently eating them.

PDSA has also identified inappropriate diet as a significant rabbit-welfare issue.

7. Carrots are treats, not the foundation of rabbit nutrition

Popular culture has not been particularly helpful here.

Rabbits do not need a bowl filled with carrots every day.

Root vegetables and fruit are relatively sugary and should generally be occasional treats rather than major dietary components.

The classic:

rabbit + enormous carrot

image is better suited to cartoons than nutritional planning.

8. Fresh water should always be available

Rabbits need continuous access to clean drinking water.

The RSPCA notes that rabbits often prefer a heavy ceramic bowl, although bottles can also be used provided they are functioning properly and checked regularly.

Whichever system you use:

• refresh water regularly;
• clean containers;
• ensure bottles are not blocked;
• ensure bowls cannot easily tip.

During winter, prevent freezing.

During hot weather, monitor water carefully.

9. Never intentionally fast a rabbit unless specifically directed by an appropriately qualified veterinarian

This is an important species difference.

Dog and cat guardians may sometimes receive fasting instructions before procedures.

Those instructions must not automatically be applied to rabbits.

PDSA specifically notes that rabbits do not need to be starved before neutering surgery and advises continuing food and water.

If your rabbit has a procedure scheduled:

follow the rabbit veterinary team's instructions.

Do not improvise based on previous experience with another species.

10. Rabbits need companionship

Rabbits are social animals.

PDSA recommends keeping rabbits in a bonded pair or compatible group and notes that solitary rabbits can experience:

• boredom;
• frustration;
• anxiety;
• social isolation.

The RSPCA similarly advises keeping a rabbit with at least one friendly compatible rabbit where appropriate.

Human companionship is valuable.

But:

a human is not another rabbit.

11. Another species is not a substitute for a rabbit companion

Historically, rabbits and guinea pigs were sometimes housed together.

This is no longer considered good welfare practice.

PDSA advises against housing rabbits with other species because:

• their needs differ;
• their communication differs;
• they cannot provide the same species-specific social support.

A guinea pig is not:

“a smaller friend for the rabbit.”

Both species deserve companions and environments appropriate to their own biology.

12. Bond rabbits carefully

Do not simply put two unfamiliar rabbits together and hope they become friends.

Rabbit bonding should be:

• gradual;
• controlled;
• monitored;
• based on compatible individuals.

Neutering is also important because reproductive hormones can contribute to:

• unwanted breeding;
• territorial behaviour;
• fighting.

If you are inexperienced with bonding, a rabbit rescue or rabbit-experienced veterinary/behaviour professional may be able to help.

13. A hutch alone is not enough

A traditional rabbit hutch may provide shelter.

It should not define the rabbit's entire world.

Rabbits need sufficient permanent space to:

• run;
• hop;
• stretch;
• stand upright;
• explore;
• hide;
• interact;
• exercise.

The RSPCA emphasises that rabbits are active animals and need an environment that allows exercise, shelter, hiding and natural behaviours.

Think:

living environment

rather than:

cage.

14. Indoor rabbits need proper space too

“House rabbit” should not mean:

rabbit permanently living in a small indoor cage.

Indoor rabbits need:

• exercise;
• enrichment;
• appropriate flooring;
• hiding places;
• chewing opportunities;
• rabbit-proofed areas.

The RSPCA notes that indoor rabbits still need all five fundamental welfare needs met and require additional protection from household hazards such as electrical wires and toxic materials.

15. Rabbit-proof electrical cables

If a rabbit can reach a cable, assume chewing is possible.

Protect or completely restrict access to:

• electrical wires;
• chargers;
• extension cables.

Also consider:

• houseplants;
• medicines;
• cleaning chemicals;
• small swallowable objects;
• unstable furniture.

Rabbits explore partly through chewing.

Rabbit-proofing should work with that behaviour, not assume it can simply be trained away.

16. Flooring matters

Rabbits need secure footing.

Very slippery floors can make normal movement difficult.

Provide appropriate:

• mats;
• rugs;
• other safe non-slip surfaces

where necessary.

Check anything offered for chewing or ingestion risk.

17. Give rabbits somewhere to hide

As prey animals, rabbits need the ability to retreat.

Provide secure hiding places.

Ideally, rabbits sharing an environment should have enough hiding opportunities that individuals can choose:

together

or

apart.

The RSPCA recommends giving rabbits suitable sheltered spaces and ensuring they have choice around resting.

A rabbit that knows it can retreat may feel safer than one forced to remain exposed.

18. Protect rabbits from heat

Rabbits can become seriously ill from overheating.

The RSPCA warns that heat stress can make rabbits very unwell and advises monitoring their environment during high temperatures.

Provide:

• shade;
• ventilation;
• fresh water;
• appropriately cool areas.

Never leave a rabbit trapped in:

• direct sun;
• an overheated conservatory;
• poorly ventilated enclosure;
• hot vehicle.

If a rabbit appears overheated or unwell, seek veterinary advice urgently.

19. Outdoor rabbits need weather and predator protection

Outdoor housing must protect rabbits from:

• rain;
• wind;
• damp;
• extreme heat;
• cold;
• predators.

But security should not mean sacrificing:

• ventilation;
• exercise;
• space;
• enrichment.

A predator-proof sleeping box attached to a tiny enclosure is still not a complete rabbit environment.

20. Rabbits need daily exercise

Exercise supports:

• physical health;
• muscle condition;
• healthy weight;
• normal behaviour;
• mental wellbeing.

The RSPCA recommends daily opportunities to exercise and notes that rabbits are often particularly active in the morning and late afternoon.

A rabbit should be able to do more than:

three hops from one end of a cage to the other.

21. Encourage foraging

Wild rabbits spend substantial time searching for and eating food.

Pet rabbits should also have opportunities to forage.

Ideas include:

• scattering part of the daily food;
• hiding greens;
• stuffing hay into safe cardboard tubes;
• hiding food in boxes;
• using appropriate forage toys.

The RSPCA recommends food-based enrichment that encourages searching, chewing and natural foraging behaviour.

Instead of always asking:

“How quickly can I feed my rabbit?”

sometimes ask:

“How can feeding become an activity?”

22. Provide safe chewing opportunities

Chewing is normal.

Rabbit teeth grow continuously.

Provide suitable:

• hay;
• rabbit-safe chew materials;
• appropriate untreated branches;
• cardboard enrichment where safe.

The solution to destructive chewing is not simply:

“stop chewing.”

It is often:

protect inappropriate targets + provide appropriate ones.

23. Provide digging opportunities

Digging is another normal rabbit behaviour.

Depending on the environment, safe options can include:

• digging boxes;
• appropriate substrate;
• dedicated digging areas.

The RSPCA includes digging among useful forms of rabbit environmental enrichment.

24. Learn rabbit body language

Rabbits communicate through:

• posture;
• ears;
• movement;
• facial tension;
• activity;
• interaction.

A relaxed rabbit may:

• stretch out;
• lie on their side;
• explore;
• groom;
• interact socially.

A frightened or uncomfortable rabbit may:

• freeze;
• crouch;
• hide;
• avoid interaction.

Learning your individual rabbit's normal behaviour is one of the best ways to notice change.

25. Handle rabbits carefully

Many rabbits do not naturally enjoy being picked up.

From a prey animal's perspective:

being lifted off the ground can feel like being caught.

Whenever possible, interact at floor level and allow the rabbit to approach.

PDSA and RSPCA guidance emphasises patient, positive interaction rather than forcing contact.

If lifting is necessary, learn safe rabbit handling from an experienced veterinary professional or welfare organisation.

Never:

• lift by the ears;
• allow the hindquarters to hang unsupported;
• allow children to carry rabbits unsupervised.

A struggling rabbit can injure itself.

26. Find a rabbit-experienced veterinarian before you need one

Rabbit medicine is not simply miniature dog/cat medicine.

Before an emergency, identify a veterinary practice comfortable with:

• rabbit preventive care;
• dentistry;
• gastrointestinal emergencies;
• anaesthesia;
• surgery;
• vaccination;
• neutering.

Also identify the out-of-hours provider.

Ask:

“Does your emergency service routinely treat rabbits?”

before you need the answer at 2 a.m.

27. Arrange regular veterinary health checks

Routine veterinary examinations can help monitor:

• weight;
• body condition;
• teeth;
• ears;
• eyes;
• skin;
• nails;
• abdomen;
• mobility;
• vaccination;
• nutrition.

The appropriate examination schedule should be determined with your veterinarian based on:

• age;
• health;
• previous conditions;
• lifestyle.

Do not wait for obvious illness to establish veterinary care.

28. Keep vaccinations up to date

Vaccination requirements vary by country.

In the UK, veterinary/welfare guidance recommends vaccination against:

• myxomatosis
• rabbit haemorrhagic disease (RHD/RHDV), including relevant variants

with ongoing boosters according to veterinary guidance and available products.

These diseases can be severe or fatal.

Even rabbits living indoors may still face exposure routes depending on disease and environment.

The correct approach for 1KAHU is therefore:

Veterinarian's vaccination plan → vaccination recorded → next date recorded → reminder

not:

App guesses rabbit vaccination schedule from age.

Related guide: Rabbit Vaccinations: What Guardians Need to Know

29. Discuss neutering

Neutering can:

• prevent unwanted litters;
• support compatible social housing;
• reduce some hormone-related behaviours;
• prevent or reduce risk of certain reproductive diseases.

PDSA recommends neutering pet rabbits and notes particular reproductive-health benefits for females.

Timing depends on factors including:

• sex;
• breed;
• size;
• maturity;
• health.

Discuss the individual rabbit with a rabbit-experienced veterinarian rather than using a universal internet age.

30. Dental health deserves lifelong attention

Rabbit teeth grow continuously.

Appropriate chewing—particularly through hay and grass—is fundamental to normal dental wear.

Dental problems can be painful and may lead to:

• eating less;
• refusing hay;
• weight loss;
• drooling;
• facial swelling;
• digestive problems.

A rabbit that suddenly stops eating hay but continues eating soft or concentrated food may have dental pain.

Do not simply solve that by:

feeding more pellets.

Have the rabbit assessed.

31. Monitor appetite every day

For rabbits, eating is one of the most important health indicators.

Know your rabbit's normal:

• hay consumption;
• interest in greens;
• pellet intake.

The RSPCA advises checking that rabbits eat every day and seeking veterinary advice immediately when eating or drinking habits change.

A rabbit refusing food is not a:

“wait a couple of days and see”

situation.

32. Monitor droppings every day

Rabbit guardians have an unusually useful health signal available:

the litter area.

Know what normal droppings look like for your rabbit.

Notice:

• fewer droppings;
• smaller droppings;
• unusually shaped droppings;
• no droppings;
• diarrhoea.

The RSPCA specifically advises immediate veterinary contact if the quantity of droppings reduces or stops.

Appetite + droppings together are particularly important information.

33. Understand gastrointestinal stasis as an emergency concern

Rabbits can develop a dangerous reduction or cessation in normal gastrointestinal movement.

Signs may include:

• reduced appetite;
• refusal to eat;
• reduced/no droppings;
• lethargy;
• pain;
• altered posture.

These signs can occur for many reasons and require veterinary assessment.

Do not try to diagnose the cause yourself.

Most importantly:

do not let an app, internet article or AI conversation delay veterinary care when a rabbit has stopped eating and producing droppings.

34. Check the hindquarters every day

A rabbit's rear should normally remain clean.

A dirty or wet bottom may indicate:

• gastrointestinal problems;
• urinary problems;
• obesity;
• dental disease;
• mobility issues;
• poor hygiene.

It also increases flystrike risk.

PDSA recommends checking rabbits daily, including for a dirty bottom.

35. Know about flystrike

Flystrike occurs when flies lay eggs on the rabbit, often around soiled fur.

The eggs hatch into maggots that damage tissue.

This can progress extremely quickly and can be fatal.

PDSA describes flystrike as a serious condition that can kill a rabbit very quickly and recommends checking beneath the tail at least daily, with more frequent checks during warm weather or in higher-risk rabbits.

Prevention includes:

• keeping the environment clean;
• monitoring the hindquarters;
• addressing underlying causes of soiling;
• discussing preventive options with your veterinarian.

If you find maggots:

seek emergency veterinary care.

36. Monitor weight and body condition

Weighing a rabbit periodically can help reveal gradual change.

Weight loss may accompany:

• dental disease;
• chronic illness;
• inadequate nutrition;
• other health problems.

PDSA recommends regular weight and body-condition monitoring.

Record weights rather than relying on:

“they look about the same.”

37. Check nails

Rabbit nails grow continuously.

Overgrown nails can affect:

• posture;
• movement;
• comfort.

If you are not confident trimming them safely, ask a veterinary professional to show you.

Do not guess where the blood vessel—the quick—ends, particularly in dark nails.

38. Groom appropriately

Most rabbits groom themselves, but brushing can help remove loose fur.

Long-haired breeds may require considerably more grooming.

PDSA notes that some long-haired rabbits need daily grooming, especially during moulting.

Regular grooming is also an opportunity to notice:

• skin changes;
• lumps;
• wounds;
• parasites;
• matting.

39. Never routinely bathe a rabbit

Rabbits generally do not need conventional bathing.

Immersion can cause significant:

• stress;
• chilling;
• handling risk.

If a rabbit's hindquarters repeatedly become dirty, the priority is to identify why rather than repeatedly washing the symptom away.

Ask a rabbit-experienced veterinarian for advice.

40. Watch the ears and eyes

Notice:

• discharge;
• redness;
• swelling;
• persistent scratching;
• head shaking;
• head tilt.

Certain rabbit breeds can have particular predispositions to ear, eye or dental problems.

New or persistent abnormalities deserve veterinary assessment.

41. Know your rabbit's normal behaviour

One of the most useful pieces of rabbit-health information is:

“This is unusual for them.”

Know whether your rabbit normally:

• runs to food;
• explores in the morning;
• rests with their companion;
• uses a particular toilet area;
• enjoys certain greens;
• approaches you.

A rabbit sitting quietly in a corner may appear:

“calm.”

But if that rabbit normally races across the room at breakfast:

the change matters.

42. Create a daily rabbit health check

Once or twice a day, notice:

EATING

• Eating hay?
• Interested in normal food?

DROPPINGS

• Normal quantity?
• Normal size and appearance?

WATER

• Drinking normally?

BEHAVIOUR

• Alert?
• Moving normally?
• Interacting normally?

BODY

• Eyes clear?
• Nose normal?
• Coat normal?

HINDQUARTERS

• Clean and dry?
• No signs of flystrike?

MOVEMENT

• Walking/hopping normally?

This can take less than a minute.

The purpose is not to perform a medical examination.

It is to notice change.

When should you contact a veterinarian?

Contact a rabbit-experienced veterinarian promptly if you notice:

• reduced appetite;
• refusal to eat;
• fewer or smaller droppings;
• no droppings;
• diarrhoea;
• weight loss;
• drooling;
• difficulty eating;
• dirty hindquarters;
• reduced activity;
• persistent hiding;
• abnormal breathing;
• eye or nasal discharge;
• head tilt;
• significant balance problems;
• obvious pain;
• wounds;
• new lumps.

Rabbits can hide illness.

Do not wait for them to:

“look really sick.”

When is it an emergency?

Seek urgent veterinary care for signs such as:

• stopping eating combined with reduced or absent droppings;
• severe difficulty breathing;
• collapse or unresponsiveness;
• severe weakness;
• significant trauma;
• seizures;
• suspected poisoning;
• severe abdominal swelling or pain;
• uncontrolled bleeding;
• maggots/flystrike;
• severe overheating;
• sudden severe neurological signs.

If uncertain whether a rabbit's symptoms are urgent, contact the veterinary practice.

What should go into a rabbit's 1KAHU profile?

Rabbit profiles should not simply inherit fields designed for dogs.

They should include rabbit-specific information.

IDENTITY

• Name
• Photo
• Date of birth/estimated age
• Sex
• Breed/type
• Colour/markings
• Microchip where applicable

SOCIAL

• Bonded companion(s)
• Bonding status
• Neutering status

NUTRITION

• Hay type
• Greens
• Pellets
• Dietary notes

HEALTH

• Rabbit-experienced veterinarian
• Vaccinations
• Weight
• Dental history
• Gastrointestinal history
• Medication
• Previous illness

EVERYDAY CARE

• Indoor/outdoor
• Housing
• Grooming
• Flystrike risk/checks
• Behaviour baseline

EMERGENCY

• Emergency rabbit veterinary provider
• Current medication
• Significant medical conditions
• Insurance

This is where 1KAHU's multi-species architecture becomes genuinely meaningful.

The rabbit profile should feel:

built for a rabbit.

Not:

dog profile → change species dropdown to rabbit.

Product opportunity: a rabbit-specific “Today” card

For rabbit guardians, I would strongly consider a lightweight daily wellness interaction:

How is Clover today?

Eating hay normally?

✓ Yes

Droppings normal?

✓ Yes

Behaviour normal?

✓ Yes

Hindquarters clean?

✓ Yes

Not as a mandatory daily chore.

But as an optional tool for:

• recently adopted rabbits;
• senior rabbits;
• rabbits recovering from illness;
• guardians who want closer monitoring.

If the guardian records:

Not eating + no droppings

the interface should immediately stop behaving like a generic tracker.

It should escalate.

How AI Guardian should handle rabbit symptoms

This matters enormously.

A dog-oriented AI response such as:

“Monitor appetite for 24–48 hours.”

could be inappropriate for a rabbit that has stopped eating.

Instead:

“You've recorded that Clover has stopped eating and is producing fewer droppings. In rabbits, reduced food intake and reduced droppings can indicate a potentially serious gastrointestinal problem. Contact a rabbit-experienced veterinarian promptly.”

The AI should also understand species-specific distinctions around:

• fasting;
• gastrointestinal function;
• dental disease;
• flystrike;
• heat stress.

This is exactly why 1KAHU should not build:

one generic pet-health model with different animal pictures.

Species context must change the safety logic.

Common rabbit-care mistakes

Feeding too little hay

Hay should form the foundation of the diet.

Feeding mainly pellets or muesli

Concentrated food should not displace the fibre-rich hay/grass component.

Feeding carrots every day

Root vegetables should be occasional rather than dietary staples.

Keeping a rabbit permanently in a small hutch

Rabbits need substantial space and daily opportunities for normal movement.

Keeping a rabbit alone

Rabbits generally benefit from compatible rabbit companionship.

Pairing a rabbit with a guinea pig

Different species do not replace appropriate rabbit companionship.

Picking rabbits up constantly

Many rabbits prefer interaction at ground level.

Ignoring reduced droppings

A change in droppings can be medically significant.

Waiting when the rabbit stops eating

Appetite loss deserves prompt veterinary attention.

Applying dog/cat fasting rules

Rabbits should not automatically be fasted before procedures.

Forgetting vaccination

Myxomatosis and rabbit haemorrhagic disease are serious threats in relevant regions.

Treating a dirty bottom as a grooming problem

It may indicate underlying health or husbandry problems and increases flystrike risk.

Key facts

Rabbits are social animals. Compatible rabbit companionship is an important part of welfare.

Hay and grass should make up most of the diet. They provide essential fibre and help maintain dental and gastrointestinal health.

Rabbit teeth grow continuously. Appropriate fibrous food and chewing are essential to normal wear.

Fresh water must always be available.

Rabbits need more than a hutch. They require enough space and enrichment to exercise and express normal behaviour.

A rabbit that stops eating needs prompt attention. Reduced appetite or reduced/absent droppings can indicate serious illness.

Flystrike can progress very quickly. Regular hindquarter checks are important, particularly during warmer weather and for higher-risk rabbits.

Vaccination is an important part of preventive rabbit care. Relevant diseases and vaccine protocols depend on country and veterinary guidance.

Rabbit medical advice must be species-specific. Dog and cat guidance should never automatically be transferred to rabbits.

Frequently asked questions

Are rabbits easy pets for beginners?

Rabbits can make wonderful companions, but they are not particularly low-maintenance pets. They require specialist nutrition, substantial space, enrichment, social companionship and rabbit-appropriate veterinary care.

What should a rabbit eat every day?

The majority of the diet should be good-quality hay and/or grass, supplemented with appropriate leafy greens, a small measured quantity of suitable pellets and constant access to fresh water.

How much hay does a rabbit need?

Hay and/or grass should ideally be consistently available. A useful practical minimum used by PDSA is a quantity of hay approximately equal to the rabbit's own body size each day.

Can rabbits eat carrots every day?

Carrots are relatively sugary and should generally be treated as an occasional food rather than a dietary staple.

Can rabbits eat lawnmower clippings?

No. The RSPCA specifically advises against feeding lawnmower clippings because they can make rabbits ill.

Does my rabbit need another rabbit?

Rabbits are social animals and generally benefit from living with a compatible rabbit companion. Human attention does not fully replace rabbit-to-rabbit companionship.

Can a rabbit live with a guinea pig?

They should not generally be housed together as substitutes for same-species companionship. Their communication, dietary and welfare needs differ.

Can rabbits live indoors?

Yes, provided the home can meet their welfare needs, including sufficient space, exercise, companionship, enrichment and protection from household hazards.

Is a hutch enough for a rabbit?

No. Rabbits need substantial space for exercise and normal behaviour in addition to a secure sheltered resting area.

Do rabbits need vaccinations?

Yes, preventive vaccination is important where relevant vaccines and disease risks apply. In the UK, rabbits are vaccinated against myxomatosis and rabbit haemorrhagic disease, with boosters arranged through the veterinary team.

Should rabbits be neutered?

Neutering is widely recommended for pet rabbits for reproductive, health, behavioural and social reasons. Individual timing should be discussed with a rabbit-experienced veterinarian.

Do rabbits need to fast before surgery?

Unlike dogs and cats, rabbits should not routinely have food and water withheld before surgery. Follow the rabbit veterinary team's specific instructions.

Why are my rabbit's teeth so important?

Rabbit teeth grow continuously. A fibre-rich hay/grass-based diet promotes prolonged chewing and normal dental wear. Dental disease can cause pain and appetite loss.

How often should I check my rabbit's droppings?

Every day. Changes in quantity, size or production can provide important information about gastrointestinal health. The RSPCA advises immediate veterinary contact if droppings reduce significantly or stop.

My rabbit has stopped eating. Should I wait until tomorrow?

No. A rabbit that stops eating requires prompt veterinary advice, particularly if droppings have also reduced or stopped.

Why is my rabbit's bottom dirty?

Possible causes include dietary, dental, gastrointestinal, urinary, weight or mobility problems. A dirty bottom also increases flystrike risk, so persistent soiling should be assessed rather than treated only as a cleaning problem.

What is flystrike?

Flystrike occurs when flies lay eggs on a rabbit, often around soiled fur; the resulting maggots damage tissue. It can progress rapidly and requires urgent veterinary treatment.

A rabbit's world should be bigger than a hutch

A rabbit does not measure good care by:

how expensive the cage was.

They experience care through:

the hay they can graze.

the space they can run.

the tunnel they can explore.

the place they can hide.

the ground they can dig.

the companion they can rest beside.

the ability to choose whether to approach you.

And the guardian who notices when:

the breakfast remains untouched

or

the litter tray suddenly looks different.

Rabbits can be quiet animals.

That should never make their needs invisible.

Once you understand them, rabbit care becomes much less about keeping an animal contained.

And much more about creating an environment where a rabbit can actually:

be a rabbit.

1KAHU

Built around the rabbit—not adapted from the dog.

A rabbit's care history can include:

Vaccinations

Weight

Dental Care

Veterinary Visits

Medication

Gastrointestinal History

Neutering

Bonded Companion

Diet

Emergency Information

1KAHU is designed to bring those pieces together around one continuous pet profile.

For rabbits, that means recognising that:

diet matters differently.

social care matters differently.

dental health matters differently.

emergency signs matter differently.

One platform.

But care that understands the species.

One Guardian. For All Pets.

1KAHU is a technology platform and is not a provider of veterinary healthcare or other professional pet-care services. This guide provides general educational information and does not replace individual veterinary advice. Rabbit vaccination, nutrition, neutering, medication and preventive-care recommendations should be discussed with an appropriately qualified rabbit-experienced veterinary professional.